Story by Editor-at-Large CAROLINA OGLIARO
Amid the revered corridors of the Official Paris Haute Couture Calendar, Juana Martín unveils Fervor, a collection that pulses with the intensity of Andalusia’s cultural heartbeat. This show marks the Cordoban designer’s seventh couture collection and reinforces her distinctive voice, rooted deeply in Spanish heritage yet soaring on the global fashion stage. Juana Martín is no stranger to Paris; as the only Spanish woman ever to gain official access to this hallowed institution (following the legends Balenciaga and Rabanne), she continues to carve a path of excellence and cultural pride with each collection.
Fervor is an evocative homage to one of Andalusia’s most profound and complex traditions: religious fervor as embodied in the solemn processions of Holy Week. This centuries-old ritual is more than faith; it is a collective identity, a tapestry of devotion, artistry, and communal spirit. Martín translates this rich cultural phenomenon into haute couture, inviting the Parisian elite into the ritualistic world of “nazarenos”, the penitents who move in reverent silence cloaked in black ruán, a distinctive deep black fabric reserved for these long robes and their iconic pointed hoods.
The collection’s palette is faithful to Martín’s signature black and white, yet here it takes on a sacramental gravity. Against the starkness of black ruán, shimmering white elements and bold jewelry disrupt the austerity, creating a dialogue between solemnity and celebration. The intricate adornments, inspired by the richly decorated Christs and Virgins central to Andalusian iconography, elevate the garments beyond simple clothing; they become wearable reliquaries, vessels of cultural memory and spiritual symbolism.
The sensory experience of Fervor extends beyond fabric and silhouette. Juana Martín conjures the atmosphere of Holy Week’s candlelit processions, showers of petals drift like whispered prayers; sacred images imbue the runway with a quiet sanctity. The couture pieces carry an emotional weight, a reverence that both honors tradition and redefines it for contemporary haute couture.
Martín’s creative process is a collective endeavor, with trusted collaborators Rafael Maqueda and Menchu Benítez shaping hair and makeup to complement the collection’s austere elegance. Supported by ICON’s luxury products, the team crafts a visual harmony that echoes the solemn yet passionate spirit of the collection.
The enduring commitment to craftsmanship is evident through partnerships with Málaga de Moda, which champions Andalusian artisanship, and Cordoban powerhouse Plenitas, dedicated to nurturing regional talent. Complementing the collection’s aesthetic, Francesca Bellavita contributes handcrafted Italian footwear, blending Italian artisanal excellence with Andalusian heritage.
Fervor is a cultural manifesto, a couture ritual that threads the sacred with the modern. In reaffirming her Andalusian roots through the lens of haute couture, Juana Martín asserts the power of fashion as storytelling, of clothing as a vessel for identity, devotion and artistry.
As the lights dim in Paris’s Fifth Arrondissement and the silhouettes of Fervor emerge, the audience is transported from the fashion capital to the fervent streets of Andalusia, reminded that haute couture can be a hymn, a procession, and above all, a celebration of heritage in its most transcendent form.
