Story by Editor-at-Large Europe CAROLINA OGLIARO
When Love Took Flight: Thom Browne’s Fall/Winter 2025-2026 Redefined the Art of Fashion
As New York Fashion Week unfolded, the bustling energy of the city paused to witness a masterpiece, a show so transformative, that it transcended fashion to become an unforgettable cultural moment. Thom Browne, ever the maestro of imagination and precision, presented his Fall/Winter 2025-2026 collection in a setting as poignant as the collection itself.
The audience, a mix of global tastemakers and industry titans like Anna Wintour, Cara Delevigne, Adrien Brody andJustin Theroux, entered a venue cloaked in wonder. Two thousand delicate origami birds hovered above like a dream suspended, their stillness juxtaposed with the latent energy of flight. In the center of the room stood a cage, home to two lovebirds, peering wistfully through the enclosure. The symbolism was clear: this was a story about longing, transformation, and freedom.
And so, the Thom Browne narrative began.
A Magical Stage Where Fashion and Fantasy Meet
The presentation was as much theater as it was a runway show, a testament to Browne’s ability to weave storytelling into his collections. Two ornithologists appeared first, their double-faced wool parkas shielding them like explorers entering an untouched world. Their semi-sheer argyle stockings, peeking from over-the-knee suede waders, reminded the audience that even functional details could hold grace. They took their place at a white, origami-inspired desk and chairs, both stark and surreal, ready to observe the sartorial magic that was about to unfold.
Then, the first models emerged, stepping into the space with an elegance that felt almost otherworldly. Draped in heritage tweeds from England, their silhouettes commanded attention. Broad shoulders grounded elongated jackets, which peeked through meticulously structured topcoats. The signature Thom Browne suiting took on a broader, more authoritative stance, while shrunken argyle cardigans provided a playful counterpoint. Hemlines, from daringly short to dramatically long, created an eclectic rhythm. Each look was a revelation, no two garments were alike, and each was imbued with a sense of individuality that celebrated freedom of expression.
An Ode to Tailoring Reimagined
The hallmarks of traditional menswear were turned inside out, becoming both familiar and thrillingly new. Suede elbow patches and contrasting collars played with notions of nostalgia, while modular shirting in vibrant gingham silk evoked the elegance of the Gilded Age with removable collars and cuffs. Self-covered buttons, belts, and armbands appeared as refined accents, whispering of meticulous craftsmanship.
The collegiate motif, a subtle homage to Browne’s own roots, made an appearance with a chocolate suede varsity jacket and a tweed football pinnie emblazoned with “65,” a nod to the designer’s birth year. Yet even here, the whimsy of Browne’s vision shone through, elevating these seemingly casual pieces into wearable art.
Birds of Fantasy: Browne’s Imaginary Aviary
If tailoring anchored the collection, it was the fantastical avian motifs that gave it wings. Browne drew on the surrealist “exquisite corpse” method to imagine birds that had never existed. Rendered in satin stitch and gold bullion embroidery, these mythical creatures perched on pockets, soared across patchwork coats and found life in silk intarsia. Magpies with glittering Swarovski crystals and surrealist herons with exaggerated legs became the collection’s muses, their playful presence a reminder of fashion’s ability to defy reality.
Movement became a theme, not just in the imagery of birds, but in the dynamic silhouettes. Pleated skirts twisted asymmetrically on the form, creating side-swept shapes that felt alive with energy. Inverted box pleats on stand-collar dresses revealed flashes of repp stripe silk with every step. Pops of canary yellow, a tribute to Browne’s high school mascot, added a touch of joy, while trompe l’oeil silk dresses lay flat like folded origami, backed by unfinished petticoats that celebrated imperfection.
The finale brought a rare bird to life: a grey suit jacket embroidered with gold bullion, paired with a sweeping ball skirt made from 40 meters of heritage tweed. It was a statement of grandeur, a look that captured both the romance and boldness of the collection.
Accessories That Elevated Every Look
No detail was overlooked, especially when it came to accessories. Beloved motifs like Hector the dog and the iconic Mr. and Mrs. Thom luggage bags returned, reimagined in brogued suede with two-tone spectator detailing. Shoes, from pumps to tuxedo slippers and longwings, were adorned with silk pom-poms, argyle veils, and sparkling Swarovski crystals. Each piece served as both a complement to the garments and a statement in its own right.
An Ending Filled with Love and Poetry
As the final model disappeared backstage, the audience sat in stunned silence, digesting the magnitude of what they had just witnessed. And then, like the perfect closing line to a poem, Thom Browne appeared. Clutching a bouquet of pristine white flowers, he walked slowly through the runway, his expression a mix of gratitude and quiet joy. Reaching the front row, he handed the bouquet to his partner, Andrew Bolton, in a gesture that encapsulated the collection’s themes of love, longing, and the courage to express one’s truest self.
The applause was thunderous, a standing ovation that seemed to echo beyond the venue’s walls.
A Collection That Defined New York Fashion Week
In a season brimming with innovation, Thom Browne’s Fall/Winter 2025-2026 stood as the unequivocal highlight. It was an artistic statement, a celebration of individuality, and a reminder of fashion’s power to transform and transcend. Browne’s ability to combine meticulous tailoring with boundless imagination is unparalleled, and this show reaffirmed his place not just as a designer, but as a visionary.
This was not just the best show of New York Fashion Week, it was the best show of the year. In a world where fashion often feels fleeting, Thom Browne gave us something eternal: a moment to dream, to celebrate, and to fly.
