Story by Editor-at-Large CAROLINA OGLIARO
Simone Rocha’s Spring/Summer 2026 collection at London Fashion Week was a poetic meditation on the liminal space between girlhood and early adulthood, a world at once tender, defiant and quietly audacious. Presented in the sacred, echoing space of St Stephen Walbrook Church, the show immediately set a tone of elevated intimacy: soft light catching on sequins, pearls and crystals, while models moved with a deliberate, almost ceremonial grace.
The collection explored contrast at every level. Delicate floral motifs, inspired by the subtle architecture of carnations, were rendered in tulle dresses, sheer blouses and sculpted jackets. Rocha’s signature embellishments, pearls, crystals, and intricate beadwork, transformed everyday silhouettes into pieces of wearable art, balancing fragility with a sense of assertive presence. Even the choice of footwear carried conceptual weight: platform Crocs, typically playful and utilitarian, were reimagined as ornate statement pieces, adorned with bows, beads and pearls, challenging assumptions about femininity and practicality.
Colour was treated with a painterly sensibility: soft pastels, muted earth tones, and occasional bursts of saturated pinks and blacks created a dialogue between the romantic and the rebellious. Layering was key, oversized coats over delicate dresses, structured jackets atop flowing skirts, producing a tension between protection and exposure, between childhood softness and emerging adulthood.
The beauty and styling reinforced this narrative. Models’ skin glowed with natural luminosity, while lip art ranged from soft, almost imperceptible blooms to bold, dramatic contrasts in black or berry tones, reflecting the collection’s oscillation between innocence and defiance. Hair was loose, sometimes braided or twisted, evoking a sense of youth yet framed with precision, reinforcing the idea of controlled chaos.
The SS26 had a particular emotional resonance. Rocha doesn’t simply dress the body, but she dresses the psyche. Every piece felt like a character in a larger story: some shy, others unafraid to confront the world, all navigating the complex landscape of identity, desire, and self-expression. There was a subtle commentary on the collision of nostalgia and modernity, tradition and innovation, in the way familiar feminine codes, lace, ruffles, bows, were juxtaposed with unexpected sporty or surreal elements.
In essence, Simone Rocha’s Spring/Summer 2026 collection was a masterclass in storytelling through fashion. It explained to the audience that clothes are not just objects of desire but vessels of emotion, memory, and transformation. Rocha continues to navigate the delicate line between whimsy and weight, innocence and audacity, imposing once again why she is one of the most thoughtful and visionary voices in contemporary design.
