Story by Editor-at-Large CAROLINA OGLIARO
Acne Studios FW25: The Nordic Dream Collides with the Urban Jungle—And It’s Mesmerizing
In a world where fashion often demands either nature’s embrace or the city’s edge, Acne Studios FW25 dares to ask: *why not both?* Jonny Johansson’s latest collection, unveiled at Paris Fashion Week, isn’t just a lineup of beautiful clothes, it’s an intellectual exercise in duality, an ode to contrasts that don’t just coexist but thrive together.
When Nature Meets the Skyline
Picture this: a futuristic cityscape, artificial and sharp-edged, set against a surreal, organic landscape of woven sculptures inspired by Swedish nature. It’s a dreamlike tension—like stepping into a world where skyscrapers breathe and forests hum with neon light. Johansson, always a master of narrative fashion, teams up with the design duo Front to blur the lines between the natural and the man-made. The result? A show that doesn’t just display fashion but questions it.
The Woman of Two Worlds
The Acne Studios woman has never been easy to define, and FW25 takes her ambiguity to new heights. She is the Nordic child who grew up with the whisper of forests in her ears, now striding confidently through the city’s relentless rhythm. She is both soft and strong, structured yet effortless, deeply nostalgic but always one step ahead of time.
That contradiction is woven into every silhouette: oversized outerwear with rounded shoulders, powerful yet cocoon-like. Relaxed draping that feels like an impromptu decision but lands with deliberate grace. Shorter hemlines and slits that hint at bold sensuality, balanced by flowing, almost ethereal layers. The ‘70s play a supporting role, appearing in sculpted bodysuits and silky scarves reimagined as entire outfits.
Fabric Alchemy: Where Leather Melts and Denim Freezes
Acne Studios has always had a way with materials, and this season, the experiment reaches new dimensions. Think leather, both buttery smooth and raw with a crinkled, timeworn feel. Faux fur and shearling recall the childhood comfort of a teddy bear, only to be juxtaposed with vinyl-bonded denim that seems suspended in time. Fabrics float between weightless transparency and sculptural solidity, proving that texture is more than a tactile experience, it’s a language.
A Color Palette That Feels Like a Memory
The hues of FW25 tell their own story, one that flickers between nostalgia and modernity. Earthy browns, oat, and honey wrap the collection in warmth, before crashing into the bold defiance of ‘70s Bordeaux red, deep purple, and glimmering gold. Black streaks through the lineup like the ink of a pen, defining, separating, and sometimes blurring the boundaries of illusion. Patterns take a surrealist turn: polka dots become teddy bears, checks and stripes distort as if seen through a shifting lens.
Shoes & Bags: Where the Familiar Turns Strange
Acne Studios has a habit of taking the mundane and making it extraordinary. This season, the iconic penny loafer is broken—literally—reshaped into boots and heels. Pumps get a sensual twist with warped, curly leather and unexpected peep-toe cuts. The felt boot is soft and padded, almost as if designed for an astronaut of an alternate reality.
The bag game is equally subversive. The Camero Hotel debuts in a dramatically oversized version, while the Multipocket bucket bag brings a fresh utilitarian edge. The Bowlina arrives in faux ostrich and shearling, proving that luxury doesn’t have to take itself too seriously.
Accessories: Because Even Office Supplies Can Be High Fashion
If anyone could make a luxury pen into a statement necklace, it’s Acne Studios. This season’s jewelry takes inspiration from everyday desk essentials, pendants shaped like pens and notebooks, belts adorned with exaggerated heart-shaped plaques, and aviator sunglasses that demand attention.
Final Thoughts: The Power of Duality
Acne Studios FW25 is not just another seasonal collection; it’s a *manifesto* on contrast. It challenges the notion that we must choose between raw nature and fast-paced urbanity. It’s about balance, about the *illusion* of separation when, in truth, we are always both.
As the show wrapped, one thing became clear: in the hands of Jonny Johansson, fashion is no longer just clothing, it’s a conversation. And this season, that conversation is louder, smarter, and more intriguing than ever.
