Story by Editor-at-Large Europe CAROLINA OGLIARO
KHAITE FW 25/26: The Art of Seductive Restraint Takes Over New York Fashion Week
New York Fashion Week has always been a platform where audacity meets refinement, but few brands capture this duality as masterfully as KHAITE. For Fall-Winter 2025/2026, Catherine Holstein once again proves her prowess in sculpting a wardrobe that whispers luxury while exuding an irresistible edge. With an aesthetic that walks the tightrope between structure and sensuality, this collection unveils a new era of controlled opulence, one where power dressing meets an enigmatic allure.
The show opened with an atmosphere of cinematic intensity: a dimly lit runway, punctuated by the slow pulsation of a minimalist electronic score. A tailored cashmere coat, sharply cut yet fluid in movement, set the tone for what would become a masterclass in juxtaposition. KHAITE’s signature sculptural silhouettes were omnipresent, but this season, they carried an even greater sense of drama. Strong shoulders met nipped-in waists, creating armor-like protection against the elements, while plunging necklines and unexpected slashes of skin introduced an intoxicating contrast.
Texture played an essential role in the narrative. Lush shearling coats were juxtaposed against buttery leather, while delicately ruched silk dresses softened the austerity of precision-cut wool trousers. Velvet, rendered in deep nocturnal shades of obsidian, Bordeaux, and midnight blue, shimmered under the soft glow of runway lighting, adding a touch of ethereal romance to the otherwise sharply defined aesthetic.
Yet, the collection was not simply about excess. The real triumph lay in restraint. Each look was a testament to balance: a matte-black structured blazer with barely-there slip skirts, a voluminous mohair sweater paired with second-skin leather trousers. This ability to meld the masculine with the feminine, the austere with the sensual, is what has cemented KHAITE as a house of quiet yet undeniable luxury.
Accessories carried the same ethos of sophisticated restraint. Footwear oscillated between razor-sharp pointed-toe boots and slouchy suede knee-highs, striking a perfect balance between authority and ease. Meanwhile, handbags, rendered in structured, geometric shapes, felt both architectural and practical, reinforcing the collection’s theme of wearable luxury. Gloves provided a touch of polish without overpowering the ensembles.
A floor-length leather trench in a haunting shade of deep midnight swept down the runway and the message was clear: KHAITE’s woman is one of mystery, power, and undeniable allure. She is refined but never predictable, restrained yet infinitely seductive. With this collection, Catherine Holstein solidifies her position as a designer who understands the nuanced complexity of modern femininity.
In a season where maximalism and ostentation ruled many runways, KHAITE stood out by doing what it does best: elevating the art of quiet luxury into something magnetic, mysterious, and undeniably covetable.
And if there’s one takeaway from this collection? True power lies not in shouting, but in the subtlety of a whisper.
