In the rarefied air of haute perfumery, where scent transcends simple aroma to become an art form, François Hénin is a true visionary of our time. The enigmatic founder of Jovoy and Jeroboam, Hénin has spent nearly a quarter-century shaping the landscape of niche fragrance, blending the raw power of natural ingredients with a deep commitment to artistic authenticity. From the intimate narratives of Jovoy to the bold, conceptual statements of Jeroboam, his brands are olfactory autobiographies, potent elixirs and declarations of individuality. As he unveils his latest masterpiece, Eliksiro, we sit down with the “olfactory nomad” to explore the magic of extrait, the future of scent, and a fragrance’s profound power to identify a life.
Monsieur Hénin, in a constantly evolving world, how do you define the essence of olfactory luxury today, and how do Jovoy and Jeroboam continue to redefine this concept?
François Hénin: Absolute luxury is succeeding in creating an authentic perfume in the artistic sense, and above all, one that pleases the olfactory senses. Jovoy designs its perfumes based on memories; it’s a kind of olfactory autobiography, an alloy of moments or people who have marked me, and encounters from nearly 25 years in this industry. The brand’s DNA is imbued with my passion for natural raw materials that tattooed my memory during my beginnings as an essential oil distiller in Vietnam. Jeroboam is very different because Vanina Muracciole, the perfumer who signs all our fragrances, brings her very strong personal point of view; her ideas, her singular way of writing our perfumes. Jeroboam is more conceptual, even if sometimes our personal stories naturally guide our perfumes. The secret of every Jeroboam is, above all, that they are exclusively extraits, thus an opulent and deliberately intense construction, with a common musk base in each perfume, forming the olfactory link throughout the range.
You are often described as an “olfactory nomad.” To what extent do your travels and personal experiences influence the creation of new fragrances and the artistic direction of your brands?
FH: A patchouli distilled in Vietnam? The exploration of the secrets of green vanilla off the coast of Madagascar on the island of Nosy Komba? A natural curiosity for a farmer’s son for fine perfumery ingredients? It is this natural curiosity that has always guided me in the stories that each perfumer will write for my perfumes. To rediscover an olfactory memory like the Williams pear from my grandfather’s gardens to inspire Kun Amon? That of a Cistercian monastery from my childhood, between the volutes of religious services and the cold resins of incense mixtures to create La Liturgie des Heures by Jovoy? Everything is olfactory memory, a vibrant recollection of an atmosphere, an emotion.
You stated that extrait is the purest form of perfume expression. What is the magic behind this concentration, and how do you manage to capture a fragrance’s soul in such a powerful bottle
FH: Extrait de parfum is above all the promise of performance, an ideal power and longevity for personalities who, like me, like to sign their trail and presence with their perfume. They are distinguished from more subdued perfumes, Colognes and Eaux, which promise a proportionally more delicate and skin-close wear. Extrait is intended for radiant personalities who assert their presence also through their perfume. New generations are very comfortable with a signature, different, and also intense perfume, which creates encounters and leaves a memory. I am the happiest man in the world when I am told how many compliments such and such a perfume elicits from others; in the end, that is also what a perfume is: an emotion experienced by its wearer and shared by all.
Jovoy and Jeroboam, two distinct but connected souls. What are the intrinsic philosophies that differentiate these two olfactory universes, and how do they coexist in your vision?
FH: Jovoy is very intimate and very “French perfumery,” whereas Jeroboam depends entirely on its perfumer Vanina, who brings her playfulness, her humor, and a certain desire to break the academic codes of art. I take a certain pleasure in working with female perfumers, whom I often find more creative and adventurous in the way they write their compositions.
Your latest masterpiece, Eliksiro, launched in 2026, promises a contrast between light and shadow. Can you reveal the inspiration behind this duality and how the notes of mandarin, saffron, guaiac wood, leather, and oud blend to create this unique sensory experience?
FH: It all starts with the material. Eliksiro is, above all, a heritage in modernity. From the first humans who very quickly went “per fumum” through fumigations “through smoke”; to the Egyptians who expressed citrus fruits; up to the water vapor transmitted by the Arabs and the most modern current techniques… The perfumer has always played the alchemist. With one obsession: to create a philter, an elixir that arouses addiction, desire. It is with the modernity and precision that characterizes Vanina Muracciole that we deliver our Eliksiro with the wish that it pays homage to its wearers by creating a tsunami of compliments around you!
Every fragrance is a statement. What is the “signature” you wish to leave with Eliksiro, and what type of personality is this new creation aimed at?
FH: All Jeroboam perfumes are extraits, so the basic intention is not to go unnoticed. Eliksiro draws its secret from amber woods, vibrant and faithful on the skin, to a juicy, appetizing, sun-drenched raspberry. Where the fruit should quickly disappear, this marriage fuses into a surprisingly long-lasting bouquet. But this perfume is also a spicy, oriental woody, where the creamy sensuality of sandalwood rivals the seductive notes of patchouli, and the smoky, leather-tinged ones of Guaiac wood. Eliksiro is a sillage perfume, where spicy notes play all their facets in the game of seduction.
Looking to the future, what trends or innovations excite you most in the niche perfumery landscape, and how do you plan to explore them with your brands?
FH: AI is seen in perfumery as an assistant to humans, saving precious time in the most time-consuming and repetitive tasks. But when it comes to creativity, I like to believe that there is a madness, a bug in the algorithm, so incomprehensible for a statistical tool like AI, that I believe humanity still has beautiful pages to write in artistic perfumery. Everything else is just “business”; it’s necessary, but without losing one’s soul…
If you had to choose one fragrance, among all those you have created or loved, that embodies a significant moment in your life, which would it be and why?
FH: I loved working on Oriento, a challenge because it involved tackling a huge classic of oriental perfumery: the woody oud rose. After much hesitation, I called an Emirati client and friend, passing through Paris, to ask for his opinion. He liked it and left with a scented paper strip that he left in his car. A week later, he came back telling me how much he loved opening his car every morning, imbued with this perfume that reminded him of his eternal Abu Dhabi, with that little “je ne sais quoi” that made it so special to his nose. It was at that moment that we chose this perfume, a great success for Jeroboam.
Beyond simple beauty, what do you believe is the deepest power of a perfume in a person’s life
FH: There are 3 major reasons to adopt one perfume over another. The pleasure one has in wearing it, of course, receiving compliments about it, and the holy grail, being identified with it as an indivisible duo. It is quite rare to combine all three, but when it happens, it is a perfume for life.
For those who wish to elevate their style through fragrance, what advice would you give for choosing the perfect perfume that authentically reflects their essence?
FH: What is your goal? To seduce? Go for fruity gourmands or vanilla scents to enchant? A woody sandalwood or an amber perfume, or conversely, the rounded volume of musks is a good ally. To impress? A vintage trail or an opulent rose worn as a boutonnière, or a very evening gardenia, worn in a long dress with high heels… All perfumes awaken in us a collective memory and a personal memory. An incense evokes the church for some, oriental fumigations for others, or just the pleasure of seeing these mineral and smoky notes live between cold stones and immemorial volutes. In the end, listen to your nose. Let it live on your skin. And if you hear compliments pouring in and see flattering glances directed at you? Don’t fight it anymore; you’ve found your perfume.
François Hénin is a storyteller, an alchemist, and a guardian of olfactory heritage. His journey, marked by a relentless pursuit of authenticity and a deep reverence for raw materials, has culminated in brands that offer experiences, memories, and declarations of self. With Eliksiro, he once again invites us to explore the profound connection between fragrance and identity, and we truly understand that in the hands of a true master, perfume remains the most intimate and powerful form of luxury. As the world of niche perfumery continues to evolve, Hénin’s vision ensures that the soul of scent, in all its complexity and beauty, will continue to captivate and inspire for generations to come.
