Story by Editor-at-Large Carolina Ogliaro
“Punk Meets Elegance: Andreas Kronthaler’s Daring Revival for Vivienne Westwood SS25”“Life is beautiful with all its ups and downs, you have to give meaning to it.” AK
In the world of fashion, few names hold the cultural weight of Vivienne Westwood, a beacon of rebellion, artistry, and unapologetic individuality. For the Spring/Summer 2025 Calibrate show presented during Paris fashion week, Andreas Kronthaler, her longtime partner in life and creation, has once again captured the essence of Westwood’s daring spirit, delivering a collection that redefines modern elegance while paying homage to the house’s heritage.
A Symphony of Chaos and Couture
Kronthaler’s SS25 collection is a masterclass in contrast. It juxtaposes structured tailoring with flowing, almost whimsical drapery, creating an interplay of chaos and control that feels quintessentially Westwood. Billowing skirts, deconstructed blazers, and asymmetrical silhouettes dominate the runway, each piece a statement of defiance against conventional beauty standards. The buttoned-up double-breasted suits stole the light spot for the regal cosmopolitan austerity.
The collection’s palette is both muted and bold: earthy neutrals clash with electrifying reds, deep blues, and bursts of neon, with less usage of prints. Fabrics range from sensual sheer, lush velvets and silks to sustainable materials, reflecting the brand’s ongoing commitment to eco-conscious design.
Romantic Punk: A New Archetype
Kronthaler’s genius lies in his ability to weave narratives through clothing. SS25 tells the story of a modern-day rebel-romantic intellectual who is unafraid to break the rules and of showing natural femininity. Corsets, a Westwood signature, are reimagined with avant-garde cuts and paired with oversized trousers or skirts, blending sensuality with androgyny. Accessories, massive chain necklaces, pearls, the iconic orbit, baroque-inspired earrings, top hats and slouchy boots, underline the brand’s audacious DNA while the garments settle on softer and more persuasive tones.
An Ode to Vivienne
This collection feels deeply personal, almost as if Kronthaler is channeling Vivienne herself. There are subtle nods to her archive but it is unmistakably Kronthaler’s vision, pushing boundaries while staying rooted in the house’s legacy.
Sustainability at Its Core
In true Westwood fashion, SS25 is not just about aesthetics but activism.
Kronthaler’s designs challenge not only sartorial norms but also the environmental impact of high fashion. This season, the house has emphasized upcycled materials, low-impact dyes, and local production, reinforcing Vivienne Westwood’s long-standing mantra: “Buy less, choose well, make it last.”
Owning a Vivienne Westwood piece, especially one crafted under Andreas Kronthaler’s visionary hand, is like holding a living dialogue between the past and the future, is like holding a fragment of rebellion, art, and time in your hands. It’s not just clothing, it’s a relic of revolution, stitched with threads of punk defiance and eco-conscious dreams. Each garment carries the rebellious heartbeat of Vivienne’s punk revolution while bearing Kronthaler’s fearless reinterpretation of elegance and provocation. It’s a collaboration that transcends time, her legacy of activism and artistry woven seamlessly with his bold, boundary-pushing narrative. To wear Westwood by Kronthaler is to wear a masterpiece of history reimagined, a story of passion, rebellion, and creativity that lives on with every thread.
The Spirit of Revolution Lives On. A Legacy Unleashed, a Future Reimagined.
Andreas Kronthaler’s SS25 collection is more than a seasonal showcase, id a manifesto. In a world increasingly driven by conformity, it celebrates individuality, sustainability, and the audacious spirit of Vivienne Westwood. As the house continues to evolve under Kronthaler’s visionary leadership, one thing is clear: the punk revolution isn’t just alive, it’s thriving.
Kronthaler has once again proven that Vivienne Westwood is more than a brand but is an idea, a rebellion, a love letter to those who dare to be different. The SS25 collection doesn’t just dress its wearer; it arms them with an attitude, a story, a cause.
As the last model disappeared into the glow of the runway’s fading lights, the air buzzed with the kind of energy that only true art can summon. Kronthaler urged the audience to sign a petition for environmentalist Captain Paul Watson to be released and we felt that it wasn’t just fashion, it was a call to arms for a world that needs more courage, more creativity, and more Vivienne.
Punk is a state of mind and isn’t dead. It’s on the runway, dressed in sheer and elegance.
