Story by Editor-in-Chief Carolina Ogliaro
Calvin Klein Collection under Veronica Leoni offered what felt like a careful recalibration of archetypal American minimalism.
For her Fall/Winter 2026/27 runway at The Shed in New York, Leoni balanced a disciplined reduction of form with just enough indulgence to keep the narrative alive: stark black and white tailoring opened the show, with pieces that looked almost seamless in their execution, shapely, focused, pared back to essentials.
From there, the collection expanded into a tension between austerity and texture with speckled wool coats, leather suiting in full monochrome, and shearling collars that softened without softening the intent. There was also an archival nod, with references to the 1970s and early 1980s (not least the echoed denim heritage of the brand), as well as translucent jackets in smoky hues that evoked a gritty modernism.
This collection is confident in the language of restraint and the subtle power of cut, surface, and proportion, a signature voice that continues to be linked to the city that first gave the brand its character
