Story by Editor-at-Large Europe CAROLINA OGLIARO
JULIEN FOURNIÉ HAUTE COUTURE – FIRST CIRCUS SS25: A Spectacle of Freedom, Fantasy, and Unbridled Creativity
In a dazzling showcase that transcends the boundaries of fashion, Julien Fournié unveiled his First Circus SS25 collection at the Théâtre Mogador in Paris, bringing to life an immersive dreamscape where haute couture collided with cinematic fantasy. A true celebration of the designer’s 50 years of artistry, this collection marks a daring evolution in his vision, one fueled by the enthusiasm, imagination, and boldness that have driven him since childhood.
For Fournié, fashion is not merely about garments; it is about characters. As he eloquently expressed, “I don’t design and make fashion pieces, I create characters.” From this deeply personal inspiration came a vibrant cast of figures, a world populated by whimsical, larger-than-life creations, each more fantastical than the last. These characters are not just born from his mind; they are a reflection of his journey, of battles fought and dreams nurtured in the safe haven of his childhood bedroom. The First Circus collection is a tribute to those early years when superheroes, princesses, and fantastical beings shaped his imagination, forming the foundation for his haute couture empire.
The show itself was a performance, not just a runway presentation. From the very first steps, the audience was swept away into a world where each piece was a narrative, a role waiting to be inhabited. The opening look, a goddess in a cyborg trench coat, set the tone, a stunning fusion of the mythical and the modern, bathed in a haunting yet liberating light. As the show unfurled, it was clear that Fournié was not simply presenting a collection; he was telling a story, inviting the audience to step into a universe where dreams were spun into fabric and fantasy was brought to life.
The luxury dealer version of the White Rabbit, the exploded Joker, the female clown from a black-and-white flick, and the princess who has gone through the mirror were just some of the unforgettable characters that paraded down the runway. These creatures, each seemingly drawn from animated films or vivid childhood dreams, embodied the essence of Fournié’s creative evolution. They were not bound by the limitations of reality; they were expressions of freedom, of rebellion against conventional fashion, and of a boundless imagination that refuses to be tamed.
In the intricate construction of each garment, Fournié showcases his mastery of haute couture techniques. The collection boasted ultra-luxurious creations, crafted with layers of fabric, exquisite embellishments, and breathtaking color combinations. The meticulous craftsmanship that went into every seam and stitch was evident, transforming each piece into a work of textile art. These were artifacts of the imagination, forged through the collaboration of skilled artisans, seamstresses, and tailors, who brought Fournié’s vision into the tangible world.
But perhaps the most striking element of this collection was its freedom. The freedom to dream, to create, and to redefine haute couture. Fournié himself declared, “Long live independent and free Haute Couture!” In this, he rejected the confines of trends and mainstream fashion, opting instead to craft legendary outfits for those who dare to wear them. These were not clothes for the faint of heart. They were for the bold, for the dreamers, for those who understand that fashion is not just an expression of style, but a reflection of one’s very essence.
The show was a grand spectacle, heightened by an ensemble of opera singers, film actresses, and sculptors, including the likes of Audrey Fleurot, Marina Viotti, and Cédric Le Gallo, who added to the surreal, theatrical atmosphere. Choreographed by Wilfried Bernard, the dancers who brought the collection to life were a vital part of the performance, their movements mirroring the grace and boldness of the designs themselves.
In a world where the metaverse continues to grow and shape the future of fashion, Fournié’s vision stretches beyond the physical realm, as he seeks to integrate animated aesthetics into the lives of men and women in the real world. His collection is a clear indication that fashion is not bound by the physical or the expected. It is about dreaming big, imagining the impossible, and bringing it to life in the most luxurious and extravagant of ways.
As the First Circus SS25 collection closed, the audience was left not with the fleeting beauty of a runway show, but with the profound sense that they had witnessed something deeply personal, highly imaginative, and utterly freeing. The creations of Julien Fournié are not just for the moment; they are timeless, captivating, and built for those who understand that fashion is as much about dreaming as it is about dressing.
This collection, this living, breathing work of art, was not just a fashion statement. It was a call to freedom, to embrace creativity without boundaries, and to celebrate the joy of dreaming, sketching, sewing, and performing. As Fournié himself puts it, “We are all only seeking to share my joy of dreaming.”
And share it he did.
