Story by Editor-at-Large Europe CAROLINA OGLIARO
The Exit of Sabato De Sarno from Gucci: What Went Wrong and Who Could Be Next?
Gucci has once again found itself at a crossroads. Less than two years after his much-anticipated appointment, Sabato De Sarno is exiting his role as Creative Director of the iconic Italian fashion house. His departure comes amidst a challenging period for the brand, with declining sales and a creative direction that seemingly failed to captivate audiences. But what led to this abrupt change, and who might be stepping in to reshape Gucci’s future?
Why Is Sabato De Sarno Leaving?
De Sarno’s tenure at Gucci was marked by an intentional shift towards quiet luxury—a stark contrast to the bold, maximalist era of Alessandro Michele. While this new vision was meant to re-establish Gucci’s credibility in the ultra-luxury segment, the numbers tell a different story.
1. Sales Decline & Financial Struggles
Gucci’s revenue reportedly dropped by 25% in Q3 of 2024, significantly impacting parent company Kering’s financial performance. Given the brand’s pivotal role in the group’s portfolio, this kind of drop was unsustainable.
2. Creative Direction Misalignment
Gucci built its success on a sense of eclecticism, excess, and individuality. De Sarno’s stripped-back aesthetic, while elegant, might not have resonated with the house’s core clientele. As luxury analyst Luca Solca pointed out, his designs lacked the **“cultural moment”** that defined Gucci’s previous years.
3. Internal Discontent
Reports suggest that De Sarno struggled to rally key figures within the brand. Several experienced team members reportedly left, and murmurs from within the industry indicated a lack of confidence in his vision.
Who Could Be the Next Creative Director of Gucci?
The next appointment is critical. Gucci needs someone who can inject fresh energy into the house while maintaining commercial appeal. Here are a few potential contenders:
Remo Macco– A key figure within Gucci’s design team, Macco was already on the shortlist when De Sarno was hired. If Kering wants continuity without a complete creative overhaul, he could be a strong candidate.
Davide Renne – Having spent years shaping Gucci’s aesthetic under previous leadership, Renne understands the DNA of the brand. His appointment would signal a return to familiarity.
An External Disruptor – Kering might opt for an outsider, as it did with De Sarno. A fresh perspective could reinvigorate Gucci’s standing in the luxury space. Think of names like Pierpaolo Piccioli, Kim Jones, Hedi Slimane, or even someone unexpected from outside traditional luxury fashion.
What’s Next for Gucci?
Gucci’s next move will be crucial in determining its future trajectory. The house has always thrived on reinvention, and whether the next creative director leans into nostalgia, reinvigorates modern glamour, or surprises us with something entirely new, one thing is certain, all eyes are on Gucci.
