Story by Editor-at-Large CAROLINA OGLIARO
ROKH FW25: Where Chaos Meets Couture in a Dance of Fractured Motion
In the ever-evolving narrative of Paris Fashion Week, where collections often oscillate between tradition and rebellion, ROKH’s Fall/Winter 2025 show was a masterclass in controlled chaos, a poetic study of fragmentation and fluidity. Titled Fractured Motion, the collection dissected the delicate equilibrium between meticulous craftsmanship and the raw, unpredictable beauty of abstraction. It was a revelation in structured tailoring, sculptural extravagance, and the fleeting imperfection of organic movement, drawing inspiration from the tactile dynamism of ceramics.
A Stage Set for Disruption
The presentation itself was as much a statement as the collection, staged within the deconstructed ruins of an old French Maison. This wasn’t just a backdrop; it was an extension of ROKH’s philosophy, a physical manifestation of the tension between past and present, construction and decay, refinement and disarray. Like the garments themselves, the setting suggested a world where history collapses into modernity, where perfection is interrogated and imperfection is celebrated.
Silhouettes: Sculpting the Unruly
ROKH’s silhouettes this season were an audacious exercise in architectural draping, layering, and structural intervention. Forms were exaggerated yet sharply defined, floating between control and release as if garments were mid-metamorphosis, caught between order and entropy. Wool, traditionally associated with rigidity, was sculpted into floral-like formations, mimicking the tension of clay as it shifts under the hands of a sculptor. Dotted patterns and abstract floral motifs disrupted the perception of weight, injecting an ethereal sense of motion into even the most sculpted pieces.
Perhaps most striking was the introduction of sculptural body pieces, bold, rigid manifestations of containment, juxtaposed against movement-inspired drapery, reinforcing the collection’s push-and-pull dialogue between constraint and expansion. It was a vision of a woman who exists both within and beyond the confines of form, straddling the line between discipline and rebellion.
Textiles & Craftsmanship: A Study in Tension
Fabrication played an integral role in translating ROKH’s conceptual vision. The collection saw traditional couture craftsmanship deconstructed and reinterpreted, as fabric was manipulated into sculptural floral structures, a paradox of rigidity and delicacy. Time-honored draping techniques were revisited through a modern, almost scientific lens, with garments responding to movement and light in unexpected ways.
Meanwhile, print, particularly the reinvention of the classic dot pattern, became a tool for optical illusion. By experimenting with scale, placement, and layering, ROKH created garments that seemed alive with kinetic energy, shifting with the body like an evolving work of art. This was not just fashion, it was an intellectual exercise in motion, a deliberate study of fluidity within structure.
Fractured Yet Fearless
With Fractured Motion, ROKH has redefined the dialogue between form and function, beauty and imperfection, precision and spontaneity. It’s a collection that doesn’t just acknowledge tension, it thrives within it, harnessing the energy of imbalance to create something profoundly, viscerally modern.
In a world that often demands clear lines between past and present, rigid and fluid, contained and free, ROKH dares to exist in the in-between. In doing so, it delivers a new kind of couture, one that revels in its fractures, moves within its constraints, and proves that fashion, like art, is most powerful when it refuses to be still.
