Story by Editor-at-Large CAROLINA OGLIARO
In the hallowed halls of the Universitat de Barcelona, a city known for its architectural grandeur and timeless beauty, Vivienne Westwood made an indelible mark on the world of bridal fashion. The brand’s first-ever bridal runway show during the illustrious Bridal Night, hosted by Fira de Barcelona with the support of the Generalitat de Catalunya, brought an ethereal and revolutionary vision of bridal couture to life, blending history, artistry, and the fearless spirit of innovation.
Under the romantic and storied arches of the 19th-century cloister, the runway unfolded as a carefully curated journey through time. Thirty-four couture and made-to-order bridal looks graced the stage, each garment a poignant narrative in itself. The heart of this collection beats with a balance of grandeur and intimate reflection, bringing together the delicate threads of Vivienne Westwood’s legacy.
From the very beginning, bridal fashion at Vivienne Westwood has been a canvas for innovation. Andreas Kronthaler, the creative mind behind the brand today, reflects on his long history with Vivienne and the spirit of the collection: “Bridal has always been a cornerstone for the House. Since I started working with Vivienne in the early ’90s, it’s been a vital part of the Maison. We are proud to present our first-ever bridal runway in this incredible city, where the grandeur of its boulevards and architecture were our initial inspiration.”
The collection was a potpourri of eras, a seamless fusion of past, present, and future. Corsetry, a signature of Westwood’s work, anchored the silhouettes, shaping and empowering the brides who donned these creations. The masculine edge woven into the craftsmanship of each gown pays homage to Vivienne’s punk roots, where rebellion meets romance in bold, sculptural forms. A delicate clash of hard and soft, luxurious organza paired with the sturdy structure of jacquard, created a juxtaposition of strength and fragility that is both utterly feminine and unapologetically bold.
One of the most poignant moments of the evening came with the reimagining of Westwood’s signature rose print, inspired by the botanical watercolors of the 18th-century botanist Pierre-Joseph Redouté. The soft, romantic rose motif was juxtaposed with the delicate beauty of Barcelona’s orange blossoms, symbolic of purity and new beginnings. These blooms were intertwined with gossamer layers of tulle, creating a dreamy aura that encapsulated both the classic and the contemporary.
The palette of soft pastel hues, whites, blush pinks, and pale ivory, was woven into each design, from linen and cotton to georgette and chiffon, giving the garments a lived-in quality, as though they had carried the stories of a thousand brides before. The duchesse silk from Italy, paired with the finest lace, enveloped each model in a sensual, understated elegance, while the intricate details of each gown told stories of generations past.
Among the standouts, one gown in particular captured the essence of the Westwood bridal vision, Madame de Pompadour. Inspired by François Boucher’s 1756 portrait, this ethereal gown, once Vivienne’s favorite, made its appearance in a ghostly white hue, as though it had materialized from another era. “Vivienne would have adored this,” said Kronthaler, “it was her favorite dress, a true homage to her personal vision.”
But Vivienne Westwood’s legacy is never just about the garments; it’s about the stories they tell, the voices they amplify, and the way they inspire a new generation of creatives. This collaboration with the Instituto Europeo di Design (IED) and LCI Barcelona was not just an educational experience but a revolutionary experiment in sustainable fashion, design, and creativity. Workshops, mentorships, and project briefs allowed students from various design faculties to weave their creativity into the show’s narrative, showcasing the power of design to bridge the past and the future.
Three hundred students from IED, LCI Barcelona, and EDSI Higher School of Design were invited to attend a second show, specifically curated for them, a moment of inspiration that was sure to leave a lasting impact. Westwood’s call for sustainability and artistic expression rang through every stitch, every fabric, every design.
Vivienne Westwood’s bridal collection is more than just a series of gowns. It is an embodiment of a fearless spirit, one that challenges the norms and traditions of bridalwear, replacing the mundane with the revolutionary. In the sacred space of the Universitat de Barcelona, the fashion world was reminded of what it means to truly embrace the essence of wedding couture, not as an institution, but as an expression of identity, creativity, and boundless love.
The final gown tore down the runway, a force of nature, unapologetic and bold. A single moment that would echo, leaving an indelible imprint on the future of wedding couture. In a world where tradition suffocates, Vivienne Westwood just set it free.
